Today we took a 2.2km hike through Mossman Gorge, a section of the Daintree Rainforest area. There isn’t much in the way of wildlife, but you can hear birds in the distance and the scenery is stunning. Small breaks in the dense canopy of vegetation shed mottled sunlight on the forest floor, gnarled with roots and vines. During our walk, a roving band of juvenile delinquent insects discover the blood flowing around Mary’s calves and ankles to be more flavorful than anything else. Consequently, she ends up with 25+ bites below her knees.

On the final stretch of the hike, a wild turkey acts as a haphazard tour guide. For the last 200 feet or so of trail, he strolled 5-10’ in front of us, leading us back toward the parking lot.

This afternoon we take a small boat river cruise up the Daintree River, sharing it with a dad and 2 kids from Thailand. Murray, our guide, boat operator and walking wealth of botanical knowledge, has eyesight that would made John Bausch & Henry Lomb envious. From what looks to me to be a 47-mile distance, he spots a small green tree snake curled up on a branch thick with leaves. He also finds several Little Kingfisher birds, which are about 4-5” tall with blue and white plumage and hide deep in the foliage, all as if they are sitting on your kitchen counter. We also se Pencil Orchids, Australian Swiftlets, Sacred Kingfisher and a Frogmouth Owl that’s really not an owl.

Several days prior to going out on a boat to the Great Barrier Reef, we receive an email telling us of the nasty conditions predicted and we could either tough it out in cyclone-like conditions, or transfer to another day. We choose another day, not that it made any difference.

As we boarded the boat on our newly chosen day, the crew stood handing out sea-sickness pills like they’re free bags of popcorn at your neighborhood hardware store. As we slowly pull away from the dock and they give us the safety briefing, the captain tells us “I’m sorry to say but we have a bit lumpy seas today.” A bit lumpy was a bit of an understatement! About 25% of the guests are bent over the railing as we head out to sea.

Our excitement to snorkel the Great Barrier Reef is quickly tempered as soon as we stick our masks in the water. The vast amount of dead and bleached coral is heartbreaking, and they took us to the nicer areas!  We were told that during their past summer, the air temperature got too warm and with very little wind to create surface swells and currents, the water temperature rose and cooked the coral, all thanks to global warming. The 3 different coral reefs we snorkel on are all in horrific shape, with an estimated 90% of the reefs devastated. Fortunately, this damage is limited primarily to the shallower water. If you go deeper, the coral is still in good shape.

Bags packed and goodbyes said to Bob and Leona, our hosts for the past few days, we drive back to Cairns, and fly off to Sydney where we spend a couple of days before the real excitement begins; swimming with humpback whales.