Monday, July 13
Glacier Bay National Park
3:47am, the fire alarm goes off on the boat. As we’re rudely awakened from dreams of moose & whales (or is that moose & squirrel?), you can hear frantic running on the decks as the crew responds. Fortunately it was a malfunctioning smoke detector in the kitchen and all was well. Gee, I’ve never had the smoke detector go off in my kitchen….
![]() ![]() One of the few moose we saw |
![]() ![]() In your yard, they're a pest. In nature, its wildlife. |
After a somewhat bleary-eyed breakfast from our early morning reverie, we got ready to go kayaking and what a thrill it was. Glacier Bay used to be one massive river of ice roughly 100 miles long and 1000’s of feet deep. Today, that glacier is gone and all that’s left are a dozen smaller tidewater glaciers spread out over the area. About 125 years ago, John Muir traveled thru the bay by canoe and wrote about Glacier Bay in such a poetic way, it changed America’s perception of Alaska from one of daunting cold to enchanting beauty. I think it’s both – dauntingly cold and exquisitely beautiful!
![]() ![]() Nancy, Susan & Barb, ready for the daunting cold & exquisite beauty of Alaska |
Ok, enough of a history lesson and back to kayaking. We paddled for about 1½-hours and were able to get fairly close to another glacier, the Lamplugh, dodging ice flows along the way – now I know what springtime kayaking in Montreal is like, Dan. Just before we got back to the boat, our guide pointed out an eagle’s nest high up on the side of a rocky face, with 2 fledglings just waiting to soar off like the big boys. Mom was standing sentry in a nearby tree, keeping a close eye out on the kids.
![]() ![]() Approaching the glacier by kayaks |
![]() ![]() Debbie & Nancy, kayaking past some iceflow |
![]() ![]() High up on the cliff face... |
![]() ![]() is an eagle's nest with 2 fledglings |
After lunch, about a dozen guests & crew took a true polar bear plunge in 30F water, less than a mile from Lamplugh glacier and with the ice flow surrounding the boat. Jumping into the water from the side of the boat amid screaming encouragement from those of us sane enough to stay warm and dry, they were met with cups of hot chocolate, towels and an invitation to an awaiting hot tub, upon emerging from the icy water. As if this insanity wasn’t enough, one 12-year old kid did it twice! I know what you’re thinking, how can the water be 30F when it freezes at 32F. No, they didn’t dive thru the ice – it’s salt water and it freezes at a lower temperature (28.4F), plus with the huge tidal flow, the water is constantly moving. Whatever the reason for it not freezing is, it’s too damn cold for me!
![]() ![]() One of the crew taking the polar bear plunge. That's a glacier in the background |
Just before dinner tonight, Debbie, Mary & I posthumously toasted Bill Simpson’s birthday with a bottle of champagne up in Debbie’s cabin. About 5 years ago, it was Bill who brought up the idea of coming up to Alaska – we all truly wish he could have joined us.
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